![]() ![]() The Klein stripper tool also has crimp features for terminals. You are unlikely to find solder & soldering iron at an electrical supply, such use is prohibited in house wiring by the electrical codes. If ground (green) connection to case requires a crimped on ring terminal, buy a package from Dorman at the auto supply or TE connectivity 3M or Panduit at the same electronic supply you get the power cord from. Be sure replacement power cord is same wire gauge as old one. I find stripping power cord is precise with a Klein stripper. Replacing use rosin core 60/40 or 65/35 solder. Use needle nose pliers to remove the power cord from the terminals while solder is hot. Use 120 watt iron, 16 to 14 ga wire requires that much heat to make solder melt. Wear safety glasses unsoldering, solder splashes. Then unsolder wires from metal box (RF filter?). The power cord hot & neutral appear to be soldered to that metal box? Unplug power cord from wall, remove strain relief fitting through wall with slip joint pliers. That appears to be a metal box thing on the lower right of the picture. I used the LC Engineering 1045035 Oxygen Sensor Install Kit x2.Rather than splicing the power cord outside the case, it is generally safer to replace it all the way through the panel and over to the first termination. To make the change work, since the '96- up emissions uses a before and after O2 sampling I had to first add new O2 sensor ports to the new Y-Pipe and delete the forward port that comes on the To make some room I converted the forward end of the exhaust system to '96-up spec which uses single file cats. Even with the exhaust changes performed as follows the only hope for the power steps is to reverse them and put the non powered hinge/bracket forward and the powered bracket aft. The side-by-side orientation leaves no space for the forward (normally the powered) hinge/bracket of the AMP Power Steps. On the '93 it has two "cats" (catalytic converters) that live in a vertical position at the end of the manifold down pipe. Drivers side, no problem, tons of free space. So, step one is to actually free up some space to make room for the mounting hinges/brackets of the power steps. I have not really had full time effort to this little project but as I had to replace the burnt out catalytic converters and the rest of the exhaust system it was time to set the stage for the steps. Well the first step in this process is now complete. Again, Translating the Chevy into Toyota (or visa-versa) so they talk correctly. ![]() The electrical will be a matter of isolating the door switch's in the harness for each door and matching them to inputs on the AMP's controller. This project should prove to be a challenge as I will have to shorten the step extrusions about a foot then fabricate mounting for the pivot/motor arms that translates the 'Crusier body to the Chevy specific mounting of these steps. The physical mounting, for steps used on the make/model specific is pretty straight forward, the integration into the electrical is/was a P.I.T.A. When I installed the Amp's on my Tundra 5 years ago it was quite a project and I can see where a plug-n-play option would have made it a lot simpler. You get to figure out how to make it all work for your application and the kit is still about a grand. Then they look at the installation of power steps and go "Oh Hell, I can't do that." The guys that do have the skills for the installation, on average, are also the guys that are more inclined to go with sliders because they are modding for ground clearance and rocker protection.ĪMP's "Universal Kit" is nothing more then 2 specific lengths of the step extrusion (you give then the dimension from the front door gap to the rear door back gap and they send you something equal plus a few inches) a basic wiring harness and controller a pair of "universal" pivots and a pair motor drive arms and arms. I think there is a disconnect with people right now with regard to the "automatic Steps" If they want steps they see the power steps which cost 1200.00 or the "bestop" or "go rhino" or other steps/nerf bars for 350.00 and don't see the advantage. The guy I found had these listed off and on for nearly 6 months.
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